A note about power tools.

Why should a painter learn how to make his/her own canvas stretcher?

1.  He/she considers components of "quality" to be important to her work and practice.
Some artists care about the quality of the supplies they use to make art (paint, brushes, canvas and frames), and they refuse to rely on a sub-par commercial products for their work.

2.  Artists are visionaries.
Artwork should not revolve around the supplies available, instead, artists needs to be a resource to make whatever they envision.  Knowing how to build  frames enables creators to go as small or large as they need - and it allows the canvas shape to be more innovative:  square, triangle, rectangle, shaped ... the possibilities are endless!

3.  Power tools are empowerment.
It feels good to look at a tool and say, "I can use that!"  Being adept with power tools provides people with the power to make and fix whatever they need - in the studio or the home.  This also frees the artist to explore other avenues - sculpture, installation, assemblage, etc.

A NOTE ABOUT SAFETY.
This site is meant to be a general aide to the formation of a canvas stretcher.  The tools that I am using will be different than the tools the reader uses, so read the manuals to YOUR power tools.  Specifically, learn where the safety switches and automatic turn off buttons are; study the upkeep and storage recommendations; and though I want you to feel confident using tools - never become unconcerned about them.  It is important to always be alert and serious when using tools, no matter how proficient you become.

Carpenters all over the world abide by these rules:

1.  Measure twice.

2.  It is better to cut too large than two small.

3.  Be picky and patient ... fiddle with it until it is perfect.

1. The project

This site will teach you how to build your own professional canvas stretcher frame.  The size of this frame will be 6' x 4'.  Because it is a fairly large frame, we will need to supply two mid braces and one long center brace.  However, if you are making smaller works - say 36" x 36" - you would only need one mid brace and one center brace.

We are using 1" x 2" cedar boards.  We use cedar because it does not warp. 

OTHER SUPPLIES INCLUDE:
nail gun/compressor
2" finish nails
1.5" nails
wood glue
elbow square
measure tape
pencil
chop saw (also called miter saw)
table saw
safety glasses
masonite (for edge supports and center squares)
planer
broom
patience

The first thing you need to do is get your frame and brace boards!  Your hardware store will probably not carry long cedar 1" x 2"s, so you will need to make them.  To do this, buy as many 1" x 8" as needed and "rip" the strips.  This means you will cut 2" strips out of the 8" board. I will show you how to do this, but first I want you to be familiar with table saw safety -- see next blog to learn more!

2. Table saw safety

Table saw safety:

1.  Wear short sleeves.
2.  Tie hair back.
3.  Pay attention, focus on keeping the wood firm against the "fence."
4.  Main goal:  to keep fingers out of the blade.
5.  Wear safety glasses.
6.  Have someone help you catch long boards.

To begin your project, see next blog.

3. Rip boards

To rip your boards:

1.  Adjust blade so that there are no more than 1 - 3 "teeth" showing above the board you are going to cut.  You want to cut board with the grain.
2.  Measure from the inside of the blade and set the fence appropriately.
3.  Stand to the side in case the wood kicks back.
4.  Know where your safety switch is.
5.  Turn on saw, push wood through the blade - keeping it tight against the fence.
6.  If it is a long board, have someone stand on the other end to help guide (NOT pull) the wood through.

4. Angles needed

Now that we have our boards, we need to cut the frame to length (2@4' and 2@6').  As we cut the frame boards, we will need to make 45 degree angles on the miter saw (some people call it a chop saw).

We will cut the braces later, so don't worry about them right now - just focus on the frame for now.

First, let's learn a little bit about miter saw safety in the next blog post.

5. Miter saw safety

Miter saw safety:
1.  Wear safety glasses.
2.  Keep hands about 6" - 8" away from blade.
3.  Keep wood firmly planted against back fence.
4.  Put something under long piece of wood so it doesn't fall when it is cut.
5.  Wait for saw to stop spinning after making the cut and before lifting it back up.
6.  Unplug all tools when not using them.

6. Miter end of first board - avoiding knots

Ok, you've ripped your boards, now it is time to cut them to size.  To start, make an 45 degree cut on an end of a 1" x 2" - with the WIDE side of the wood facing out.   Remember, we want our frame to be 2" thick (NOT 1" thick.)

Note the knot at the end of this board.  Since we have some extra length, we will make our first cut past the knot.

7. Mark angles for miter cuts

You cut your first angle.  Now put the board on the floor and measure how long you want the board and make a pencil mark.  From your pencil mark, draw the new angle direction on the edge of the board ... you want your angle to be the opposite of the one you just made ... this can get confusing.  So, like the photo above, mark the angle on the board to remind yourself.

Turn the angle on the miter saw, and cut to size.  Generally you want to cut on the line - or a little on the outer edge of the line (see below).  Remember:  ALWAYS ERR ON THE SIDE OF TOO BIG than too small!!!

8. Mark length for next board

Next, cut the end angle on the next board that you want to cut.

After you cut the angle, put it on the floor.

Place the finished board, the one you made in the previous post, and put it on top of this new board.  (See photo).

Make sure the cut end of the two boards are flush.

Mark a line showing where the finished board ends.

Like last time, also mark the angle you need on the side of the board.

Cut to size, just like you did in the previous post.

9. Double check your work

After you cut the pair of boards, put them atop each other again and make sure they are perfectly sized.  If one board is even 1/8" off - it will make a difference later ... so be very patient and very picky!

Once one pair is finished, do the exact same thing for the other side of the frame.  Repeat blogs 6 - 9.  After this, you should have the frame cut.  In our case, we have 2 6' boards and 2 4' boards with angles on all ends.

10. Plane the inner edge of main frame

Lay out your boards.
Mark the inside edge.
Take a planer to the inside edge of the frame on all four boards.  You can use an electric planer like above, or a manual planer (which is safer). 

By planing the edge, you make sure that a harsh and unwanted line, caused by the wood's inner edge touching the canvas, doesn't show up on your artwork once  after you begin painting. 

11. Nail the frame together.

It is now time to nail the frame together. 
First we need to prepare the nail gun and let the compressor warm up.

12. The compressor

We are using a 135 pound compressor, but all we really need are about 80 pounds of compression.  

13. Close the hose valve

The first thing we need to do is CLOSE the valve located at the bottom of the compressor.  Air compressors generate a good bit of moisture, and whomever used the compressor before you would have opened this valve when finished (the one you need to close now).  

14. Attach hose fitting

Now it is time to attach the hose fitting.  To do this, simple push back on the metal part at the top of the hose and push tube into the setting - allowing the metal part to spring back over the tube.

15. Plug in and turn on compressor

Plug in the compressor and turn it on.  The motor might startle you at first.  It will run until it fills up.  In the meantime, prep your nail gun.

16. Prep the nail gun

We are using a "pneumatic" nail gun.  This type of gun needs to be maintained.  In this photo, we are adding a few drops of oil to the gun.   You don't need to add oil every time, but you just need to be aware that it is part of the maintenance protocol.

17. Load nail gun

We are using 2" finish nails for this project (see top photo).

To load gun, slide in nails from the bottom slot (see middle photo).

The slider will stop at the end of the nails (see bottom photo) - it serves to catch the nails and puts enough pressure on them to push the nails into the shooting chamber when ready.

18. Set compressor

The compressor has been running for a while now.  Look at the top photo, you will see two meters.  The meter on the left tells us how much pressure is in the tank.  The meter on the right allows us to alter the pressure by turning the black valve attached to it.  In our case, we want less pressure and will adjust it to about 80 lbs.  If 80 doesn't work, we can readjust the pressure until it is right.

19. Attach hose to nail gun

Now it is time to attach the gun to the compressor, much like you attached the hose before:  slide out - push on - ease back over. 

Note #1:  it might be easier to attach the gun before you turn on the air, so you are not fighting with the pressure - but it doesn't matter.

Note #2:  the gun will not "shoot" nails until the end of it is pushing against something.  This is a safety feature.

20. Nail outer frame together

It is time to nail the boards together, but first, add a dab of wood glue at the end.

To use the gun, all you do is:
1.  Place
2.  Push
3.  Pull the trigger.

Before placing the gun, secure the boards under your knees.  Be picky about getting the corners flush together, and weird spacing will result in a crooked frame. 

Use two nails on one side, and one nail on the other.
Wipe away excess glue.

21. Find center for long board placement

After all of the frame boards are nailed together, it is time to make the braces.  As a reminder, we will be making two mid braces and one long center brace.  However, if you have a smaller frame, you may only need one mid brace.

For this project, I will begin with the long center brace.

To do:  Measure side and mark center point (see photo).

22. Measure for long brace placement

Study the top photo.
Notice how he is measuring the board - not with a measuring tape, but with the frame itself. 

To do: 
1.  place center brace at center mark on the frame.  Have one end touching the floor and bring it up to the edge of the other end and MARK with a pencil. REMEMBER:  it is better to cut too LONG rather than too short!

2.  Cut your board with the miter saw at the mark - set the saw at the center setting and just cut straight down - NO ANGLES are needed!

3.  Bring cut board over to the frame and see if it fits.  Your goal is to have the center of the brace hit the center line of the frame (see bottom photo).  This fit should be snug, but not too snug.  You may need to cut the board a few times to get it right - no worries, just be patient.

23. Measure short braces

Now we need to make two shorter mid braces.
Again, you may need to make only one if you have a smaller frame.

To do this, place your board flush at one end, near the corner of the frame and mark where your next cut will be at the other end. 

NOTE:  If you were to measure this mid brace where you will be placing it (two feet in on each side), then you are apt to get a faulty measurement, because we have not squared the frame yet, and the area might be bowed out.

24. Check length then lay out frame

Check the size of the newly cut brace, by placing the board in the frame (see top photo).  Re-cut board if it is too big. 

Now mark where your mid brace/s will go.  Again - we have two mid braces, you may only have one.  If you only have one, find the center and make a mark.  We are putting ours two feet in on both sides.

25. Gotta make this flush!

So our braces are all cut, but do you see how the boards are on top of each other rather than flush to each other?  Now we need to cut into the boards where they intersect so they can mesh together.  We need to "dado" the boards!

26. Mark dado marks and cuts

 To make the grooves necessary to flush the braces, we need to mark out our cuts.  So center your braces, and mark on each side where the boards meet.  (See above).

In the above photo, you can see the line we just marked on this bottom board.  Notice the top board - there are two more lines and an X.  The X tells us where to cut, and the lines show us how wide and deep to cut.  We are going to make a groove (dado) that is 1/2 as thick as the board. 

Before taking boards over to the saw, mark the boards so you remind yourself how to put things back together.  Notice below, I put an "L" on the board for a reminder (see below).

I am ready to dado the board!

27. Set blade

Lower the blade on the table saw, so that it will cut only 1/2 way into the board.

28. Dado the boards

Using the T-square to keep the board straight, cut the groove.  To do this, cut on the line as you push the board out - then shift the board over a bit before you come back so you cut another bit out on the return.  This push and pull cut should be seamless.

These photos show you how the groove is growing.  Top photo show the push out - bottom shows a pull back.  I probably had to do this a dozen times or so.

NOTE:  I REALLY REALLY should have on safety glasses!  I could feel the sawdust in my eyes and it wasn't pleasant!

29. Detail of groove

Now dado the other boards.

30. Check fit

Push the pieces together and make sure they are flush.  You may need to make a few adjustments.  Again, don't worry - just be patient and do what is right!

31. Glue the grooves

Before fixing the braces into the grooves, put a dab of wood glue in them.

32. Nail the center brace

Nail the center brace, using two nails on each side.

33. Place middle boards

Dab some glue at the ends of the middle braces, and put into place.

34. Use square before attaching middle braces

BEFORE nailing the middle brace/s - get out the metal square and make sure the corner aligns to it.  You may need to wiggle things around to get it right.  In this case, we were spot on and able to begin nailing the middle brace.

35. Re-check square

Before nailing the final side, re-check the square.  If everything is still flush - finish the nails.  If not, wiggle things around to make them right.


CLICK ON THE "Older Posts" link to see more steps -------------------------------------> (below here).